Hike This Japanese Pilgrimage on Shikoku Island

The peaceful island of Shikoku is certainly a much-appreciated break from busy Osaka. The day ahead promised a 7.5 mile trek along beautiful forested mountain trails as part of Japan’s Shikoku Pilgrimage. Although, like most people, I only covered a small part of the way in a few days, the multi-month walk around the island stops at dozens of temples along the way, many hidden in the woods surrounded by perfectly curated gardens at bamboo forests, paddy fields, moss-covered rocks and waterfalls. Whether you take the course by car, bike, or foot for weeks or just a few days, it is truly a tranquil temple pilgrimage.

My second day was the leg between Fujii-dera (the 11th temple of the pilgrimage) and Shosan-ji (temple 12). With over 3,600 feet of elevation gain, this would be one of the most challenging parts of the route – in fact, this particular stretch is sometimes called Henro-Korogashi, or “Pilgrim’s Tower.” But it is also one of the most beautiful sections. The surrounding trees and shrines along a root-strewn dirt road occasionally opened up to magnificent vistas of green mountains cascading into a tangle of forests.

Even better, after reaching Shosan-ji and spending some time at the temple — which is the second tallest at 700 meters and is known as the “Temple of the Burning Mountain” due to tales of a fiery dragon — we head to drive to our evening accommodation at an onsen hotel. There we would enjoy a delicious multi-course kaiseki banquet and soak in the onsen hot spring baths.

The Shikoku Pilgrimage circles the Japanese island in a journey of approximately 745 miles, stopping at the 88 temples along the way. The pilgrimage honors Kūkai, also known as Kōbō Daishi, who lived from 774 to 835 and founded Shingon Buddhism. Hard to imagine, but the first pilgrim guide was published in 1687.

“The Shikoku Pilgrimage is also a journey to face your inner self and seek a change of heart while visiting and moving between temples — especially the walking pilgrimage,” says Kazuki Nakamura of Tourism Shikoku. “They say that even if you don’t think about it too much, a walk around the temple will change your mind.”

What does one have to do to become a pilgrim, known as Henros or O-henro-san? John McBride, who first walked the entire Shikoku Pilgrimage in 1982 and now guides visitors along the route with Walk Japan, says: “To be a pilgrim you have to have respect for the history of the pilgrimage and an interest in why there is the pilgrimage, and an openness to care and respect along the route.”

The reasons for making the journey are as numerous as the pilgrims themselves: some visit the temples for religious reasons, after the loss of a loved one, to pray for a sick person, as a healing journey, or for a quiet time of reflection and themselves self-discovery. Hiking takes Henros through beautiful and challenging mountains, on routes with breathtaking sea views, along rice fields, through towns and on sections along paved roads.

Traditionally, this pilgrimage was undertaken on foot, but today there are many options including group bus tours, cars and even bicycles. While some aim to experience all 88 temples at once, many do it piecemeal over months or years.

Many pilgrims wear a characteristic outfit, including a white jacket or waistcoat, a Buddhist stole and a reed hat, with a walking staff in hand and a bag containing items such as incense sticks and candles. However, wearing the traditional attire is not required.

In each temple, henros can obtain a calligraphy stamp in a nōkyōchō Book. Jamie Dwyer, who has worked with Walk Japan for 10 years and now develops the company’s self-guided tours, says people love collecting stamps, but they shouldn’t rush to the temple office to get one.

“When you enter each of these temples, they don’t want you to just walk in and try to get your stamp — they don’t want that to be the purpose of your trip,” says Dwyer.

Instead, people should first properly visit the main hall and the daishi hall of the temple, perform the rituals, recite sutras or pray, and pay a small amount before having the nōkyōchō signed and stamped.

How to plan your hike

There are a variety of ways to experience the Shikoku Pilgrimage, including guided tours, self-guided tours, and independent travel.

The traditional way to complete the entire journey is to start at Temple 1 (Ryozen-ji) and go clockwise, visiting each temple on the way to Temple 88 (Okubo-ji). This approach is called jun-uchi, while driving counterclockwise—which is more difficult because the signage is in the opposite direction—is called gyaku-uchi.

Walking the entire route takes anywhere from six weeks to two or three months, depending on who you ask and how fast a pilgrim wants to go. However, many pilgrims don’t have a few free months to do the trek, so they explore smaller stretches at a time, called Kugiri-uchi. You don’t have to follow them in order either.

“The Shikoku Pilgrimage has 88 temples in Shikoku, but you can start from any of them,” says Nakamura. “If you walk at a pace of about 30 kilometers (18 miles) a day, it takes about 45 days. Many people aspire to go all the way, but due to time and physical strength, many people choose a route based on their own time and physical strength.”

Instead of walking the whole way, many use buses, cars, and taxis for part or all of the route. If you don’t have time to see all the temples, at least try to stop by the first (Ryozen-ji) and last (Okubo-ji). In addition, Zentsu-ji (Temple 75) is Kūkai’s birthplace and has considerable grounds, as well as a pagoda, exhibitions and more.

Walk Japan offers an 11-day, 10-day guided small-group tour that includes a choice of more than two dozen temples, as well as a shorter, self-guided option.

Once you’ve planned your trip, there are a number of ways to reach Shikoku Island — including ferries, trains, and buses — from Tokyo, Osaka, Kyoto, and other cities.

Best travel time of the year

Peak season for pilgrimage is spring and fall. Spring (including April, May and sometimes late March) is the most popular time of year with beautiful green spring foliage and blooms. Autumn (especially October and November) is also popular, with fall colors and golden paddy fields. Some people avoid summer because of the heat, humidity, and rain, while others skip winter because of the shorter days and cold weather, which requires proper preparation.

Stay in traditional Japanese inns and sip udon

A variety of accommodation options are available along the trek, including traditional ryokan inns, minshuku (similar to family-run bed and breakfasts), hotels, and shukubo temple lodgings (where visitors can observe and participate in temple rituals). Some accommodations also have onsen hot springs, so make time for a relaxing soak.

Shikoku is known for a variety of delicious foods. Slurp steaming bowls of udon noodles, savor dishes made with sudachi (a type of citrus fruit), and feast on fresh seafood to fuel your trip.

Be as prepared as an eagle scout

The Shikoku Pilgrimage includes mountain trails and coastal routes, so make sure you are prepared for the weather and conditions you might encounter. The terrain can be challenging in some areas. Be aware of drop-offs and coastal hazards like tides, and know what to do in the event of a tsunami.

If you’re going on a self-guided trip, take some time to learn about navigation before setting off. Wildlife to watch out for includes venomous Mamushi pit viper, Suzumebachi giant hornet, wild boar, Mukade millipede, Japanese macaque and bear. Although most people don’t have life-threatening encounters with the animals, it’s good to at least know what they look like so you can avoid them appropriately if necessary. Traveling with a guide adds the added comfort of being with someone who knows how to handle encounters.

Know the etiquette and how to be a respectful guest

Before visiting temples, it is important to take the time to learn proper temple etiquette so that you can visit them respectfully. Nakamura recommends taking your time on Shikoku Tourism’s website, as well as other websites, to learn more about the trip and learn proper etiquette.

“Prayer has been considered important for pilgrims since ancient times. Please pray carefully when you arrive at the temple,” says Nakamura. “Moreover, the Shikoku Pilgrimage is a cultural asset that is ingrained in the lives of the people of Shikoku and is a source of pride for them. The most important thing is to show respect. The locals will warmly welcome your pilgrimage if you show them respect.”

After learning about the ins and outs of the trail, be guided by a Tourism Shikoku brochure that says, “Don’t worry too much. Just take the first step and have time along the way to reflect on yourself and win something.”

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